A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen and its new powerful movement

The latest member of the Lumen family is equipped with a powerful new movement.

If A. Lange & Söhne watches often use classic design cues, then there is a sub-series that must have a more modern and technical atmosphere, and that is the so-called Lumen series limited edition. The series was born in 2010 with Zeitwerk Luminous (not yet named Lumen) and has now grown into one of the most popular and popular watches in the brand’s product portfolio. These watches with sapphire dials are rare and unique, making them the best choice for collectors. They will be happy to know that today a new watch has been launched that is back to its roots, based on an architectural watch with jumping instructions… But as you will see, this brand new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen has many new features, first of all It is an unprecedented movement, it has a strong power. Moreover, it is also the first Lumen not made of platinum…

Lumen series
Behind the Luminous/Lumen series, there is a very interesting story. The brand’s director of product development, Anthony de Haas, wore an early version of the platinum Zeitwerk and found it difficult to read the time in the dark. Therefore, he and his team began to explore how to make this modern-looking watch more readable at night…Once the disc had luminous numbers, it was created by adding parts-however, the colored sapphire dial is quite special , Because it allows ultraviolet rays to pass through in order to charge the digital light. This is the beginning of the Luminous/Lumen series.

2010 – ZEITWERK luminous “lumens”
At the time it was not named Lumen (it appeared with the second watch), the first watch in the series was Zeitwerk Luminous, based on the classic version launched in 2009, the GPHG champion. This watch comes with a reference. 140.035 is made of platinum with a dark sapphire dial. The disc with luminous indicators appears below and partially shows some technical parts of the movement. This is a limited edition of 100 pieces. Other aspects are the same as the classic Zeitwerk, with skipping hours on the left disc and skipping minutes on the two discs on the right. The m ovement is almost the same as the classic model ZEITWERK, hand wound caliber L043.3 with a frequency of 2.5HZ and a 36-hour power reserve, with a patented one-minute remontoire mechanism.

Following Zeitwerk, the brand launched the second Lumen watch based on Grand Lange 1 in 2013 to fully demonstrate the classic Lange large date function, which can be seen through the window at 2 o’clock, but partly-colored sapphire dial . This 41 mm watch, reference number 117.035, is made of platinum. All indicators are luminous (hours/minutes, all hour markers, small seconds, power reserve, and of course the big date). Inside is the manual winding movement L095.2, with a power reserve of 72 hours, and the mechanical base is the same as the classic closed dial Grand Lange 1.

This model was launched in 2016 with a reference number of 139.035. It is also made of platinum and has a diameter of 41 mm. This is an evolution of the concept introduced in 2013, but the star shown here is the luminous moon phase indicator integrated in the hour/minute off-centre dial. Just like the previous Grand Lange 1 Lumen, all displays including the large calendar are coated with luminous material, so some displays can be seen under the partially colored sapphire dial (mainly the date dial). The moon disk is decorated with many small luminous stars. Inside the case is the hand-wound movement L095.4, which also has a 72-hour power reserve and the same base as the classic Lange moon phase (non-lumen).

2018 – DATOGRAPH lumen rise/fall
After the previous three watches, Lange launched a new 200 Lumen limited edition in 2018, again made of platinum, but this time based on its most famous chronograph Datograph. The idea here and this reference 405.034 again using the partially colored sapphire dial, emphasizing the two major complications of the watch, partly showing the mechanism behind the oversized date, and making the chronograph function highly visible in the dark, as a sub-dial speed ring coating There are luminescent materials. The sapphire dial can also see the top of the movement. Finally, the Up/Down power reserve function is also highlighted with luminous materials. The platinum case diameter is still 41 mm, the movement is the same as the updated version of Datograph, and it has a 60-hour power reserve. The hands and some rod-shaped hour markers also glow.

At first glance, you might think that this brand new Zeitwerk Lumen is basically the same as the 2010 model, but the material is different… After a quick look at the watch and its specifications, you will think that is correct. It has the same iconic display-inspired by the five-minute clock in the Semper Opera in Dresden-as well as the same T-shaped time bridge and the exact same case size as all classic (only understanding time) Zeitwerk, whether illuminated or not. But, in fact, this brand new Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is a brand new watch with different proportions, improved dials of different structures and a new movement that is more powerful than before… and it is also an unprecedented material in the Lumen series. So, all in all, there are many things to explain.

Let me talk about the case first. Yes, the diameter is still 41.9 mm and the height is still 12.6 mm, just like previous versions of Zeitwerk watches. However, due to the new movement and the revised display-which will be described in detail later-the proportions of the case are different. First, the bezel is now slightly thinner than before, making the watch less visually bulky. Since A. Lange & Söhne fully respects some ancient rules of proportionality, the lugs have also been modified to become more fashionable. Of course, we are talking about subtle adjustments here, but some adjustments may make Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen more elegant on the wrist than before.

One of the main novelties of this edition is the material used for the case. The previous Luminous/Lumen version has always been made of platinum, but the case of this new model is made of the brand’s proprietary Honeygold, which is a special 18k alloy with “various mixtures and special heat treatment” that gives gold Higher hardness and very subtle color. Keep only limited edition watches in Lange-just like the 175th anniversary car-this rare and difficult alloy finds its way for the first time in the Lumens series, but not in the ZEITWERK collection, as used in the previous 2017 Zeitwerk Decimal Strike. The case retains the same finish as before, with a polished bezel and lugs, and straight brushed sides. It is worn on the brown crocodile leather strap to bring the final warm touch, which is not available in previous Lumen watches, all with black and gray technical appearance… In this regard, this Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen feels quite surprising .

An important new element of this new Lumen watch is a button on the side of the case, which was not available in the previous time-only Zeitwerk. This is where the Zeitwerk Date has the greatest impact, because this new version of the movement is indeed based on the date model launched in 2019. It allows the hour indicator to be switched individually, making it easier to set the time. Of course, the minutes are still adjusted by the crown. Like Zeitwerk Date, a toggle pulse is generated when the button is released. “The advantage is that the switching is always performed uniformly, no matter how softly or forcefully the pushers are actuated,” explains A. Lange & Söhne. In the words of Anthony de Haas, this system is also more compact than classic buttons (think chronograph-like buttons), which allows it to maintain the same size as before. Wholesale watch cheap

Now, the dial… As part of the Luminous watch series, this Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is of course equipped with a partially colored sapphire dial. The new feature of this watch is no longer glued together, but installed between two O-ring gaskets, which makes assembly easier and also provides greater resistance to shocks. The sapphire dial has a light-transmitting coating that allows the luminous numbers that are not exposed to the aperture (usually hidden under the dial) to absorb enough ultraviolet light in the dark. Therefore, not only the numbers exposed in the holes are luminous, but also the numbers hidden under the sapphire dial are slightly visible…

The display still consists of a time bridge with two huge openings, a single disc for hours and a combination of two discs for minutes. The splint, redesigned for this occasion, is equipped with a larger sub-second dial, and now uses black rhodium-plated German silver (instead of black coating) to make it lighter and warmer. The power reserve indicator is still at 12 o’clock, and the hands on the dial are made of 18k honey gold.

Returning to the mechanical aspect, Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen retains the stunning display that makes this series unique, which means that the complex combination of three instantaneous jumpers displays the time in a digital format, and all numbers are of the same size. They switch precisely and read from left to right. Behind this mechanism is a complex constant force device. In fact, such a large disk needs to release a lot of energy. In addition, this one-minute remontoire (thus driving the unit minute disc) ensures that the balance wheel is always driven with constant power, thereby improving the accuracy of this watch. In short, this one-minute spring loaded and unloaded to drive the disc to jump is also beneficial to the accuracy of the watch…

But this is not new… The brand new is the L043.9 movement, which is based on the Zeitwerk Date movement architecture. But this is not just a small change, because the date complication is not a module to be deleted, which means that the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen needs to reconsider the entire upper part of the engine. However, this also means that this new engine benefits from the structure of two barrels stacked on top of each other. Combined with a lighter balance wheel and a lighter remontoire, the power reserve has doubled, from 36 hours in the past to 72 hours now. It is also certain that this upgraded movement will enter the regular Zeitwerk situation sooner or later.

The combination of a longer power reserve and a new hour correction button makes this L043.9 movement a considerable improvement over the previous generation movement. The movement consists of 462 parts and operates at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). Looking through the sapphire bottom cover, the design and decoration are once again very attractive. The exquisite bridge on the top of the remontoire is the star of the show. The rest is equally impressive, with a hand-engraved balance wheel and escapement splint, a sun-dried sprocket, and a filament straight-grain constant escapement that can accommodate two recessed, screw-in gold sleeves Splint. All parts are decorated, visible or not.

Case: 41.9 mm diameter x 12.6 mm height-18k honey gold case, polished and brushed (updated design, thinner bezel and lugs)-sapphire crystal front and back cover-new buttons for quick correction of the hour indication
Dial: Sapphire crystal, coated, now sandwiched between 2 O-ring seals-German silver hour bridge, black rhodium-plated, honey gold hands
Movement: Lange’s homemade calibre L043.9-manual winding-61 jewels-462 parts-33.6 mm x 9.2 mm-two vertically stacked barrels provide a 72-hour power reserve-18,000 vibrations per hour , Cam balance wheel, spring made in the lever escapement, constant force and minute remontoire for jumping minutes-hours and minutes with jumping numbers, small seconds with stop seconds, power reserve indicator
Strap: Hand-stitched dark brown alligator leather strap with honey gold pin buckle
Reference: 142.055