Recently, we have been fortunate to wear a spectacular timepiece for several weeks. In fact, when talking about a watch, the watch is not necessarily what most people think of, because it does not have two or three hands to indicate the time. We are passionate about watches that do not have a “normal” hand to indicate time in other ways. Today’s spectacular timepieces fall into this category – what we affectionately call the perfect “monochrome material” – it is one of the best examples of independent high-end watchmaking. We have close contact with URWERK UR-210s Full Metal Jacket.
In the world of high-end watches, you seem to be able to develop in two directions. It can be developed in the direction of extremely creative, crazy creation, high technology, high probability, and can also be achieved through another way of displaying time, or it can be super in the most classic sense of ancient classic high-level watchmaking. Conservative to meet all classic high-level watch design guidelines. Although it looks like two worlds, these worlds are actually much closer than you think! Both are usually on the same basis and are classic advanced watchmaking techniques. Whether we are talking about Hautlence HL, MB&F HM3 or MCT sequence two, what links them together is that all movement parts are made of circular texture (pèrlage), beveled and polished bridges, levers and flat surfaces for fine finishing Processing, usually decorated with manually applied Côtede Genève stripes. These same principles can be found in all URWERK timepieces, and the brand’s main watchmaker (Felix Baumgartner) is even a member of the prestigious Académie Horlogère Des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI).
Overall appearance URWERK UR-210
The watch on hand (pun intended to mean full) is UR-210, which may be the most technologically advanced product of Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei (aka URWERK). The central “hand”-or should it be called the pointing device? – Point to the minute on the 120 degree arc, and at the same time it shows the actual internal hours as part of the “indicating device”. When the pointer or pointing device reaches 60 minutes, it will fly back to zero. At the same time, enter the number for the next hour.
I think we can all agree that this is a very technical innovation, and because of its nature, UR-210 is a bit polarized. One thing I noticed during the review is that everyone (whether they like watches or not) is fascinated by mechanics, technical aspects, bizarre shapes, parts and a lot of metal parts. The steel version on the steel bracelet is UR-210s, which deserves its nickname “All Metal Jacket”.
Although we are going to review some of the most spectacular timepieces, I have to say that wearing URWERK UR-210 is an extraordinary experience, not just “only” a spectacular timepiece. To make myself understand, I have to recall what Martin Frei, the co-founder and chief designer of URWERK, told me in 2010.
Martin Frei: On watches with hour and minute hands, it is easy to see and know the position of the hands at the next meeting. In this way, you will have an intuitive impression of “future”. URWERK’s clocks display time in a linear manner, which makes the experience of the past and the future completely different.
When wearing the UR-210, I found myself feeling more “instantaneous” than any other regular timepiece, and I knew less about the past and the future. Maybe the pressure is even less (or it was caused by my review during the holidays). I didn’t immediately recall the conversation with Martin Frei, but when I started to write this review and wanted to grasp the essence of reading time, it came back to me and somehow perfectly Summed it up.perfect replica watches
The URWERK UR-210 on the steel bracelet looks very technical. Compared with ordinary watches, it is a technical chronograph art on the wrist. Although the appearance of the UR-210 may be the most technical, the description is practically applicable to almost all URWERK timepieces. It does not immediately look like a watch at all, because most people imagine two or three hands (or some kind of digital display) to do something. I think it is safe to say that UR-210 is not meant to make people timid. For those who like to impress a large gold watch with a well-known name on the dial, this is certainly not the ideal choice. URWERK UR-210 is for those who sail on their own; this is for the spirit of independence among us.
Case and bracelet/strap
The size of the stainless steel case is 43.8mm x 53.6mm x 17.8mm, but the photo above may be a better guide than these figures. Yes, it is almost 44 mm wide and almost 18 mm thick, but I never thought it was too big. It does have a certain “wrist strength”, in fact it is in line with its highly technical and outgoing style.
The UR-210 on the steel bracelet is also not light. Again, it has a certain “wrist strength” and is again suitable for watches. I can’t imagine this watch being ultra-thin or ultra-light. I am very pleased to note that UR-210 has a good balance on the wrist and is comfortable to wear.
There are three different versions of UR-210, one is titanium and red gold (UR-210RG), one is black-coated steel and titanium (UR-210Y), and the third is this version of steel and titanium. Came here for the bracelet (UR-210S). All three versions of the case back cover are made of titanium, while the front cover is made of black coated steel, rose gold or ordinary steel. A titanium case is a good choice because A) reduces the weight of the watch and B) is hypoallergenic.
As you can see, there are many things in the trunk, mainly related to the “winding efficiency index” (more on this later). The steel bracelet was originally launched on UR-202 in 2011, and was introduced with UR-210 earlier this year. The finishing of the case and bracelet is amazing, it feels smooth on a flat surface or even all edges, angles and anywhere!
An interesting design feat is to grind the top cover into one. Milling such an uneven top shell is not easy and requires very difficult machining and finishing. You will see that the sapphire crystal has exactly the same curvature and is flush with the case. The crown is located at 12 o’clock and has a crown protection hook and loop, which remains in place even when setting the time or winding the best fake watches for men.
Dial and hands
The flyback minute hand is located in the center. The pointer moves from 0 to 60 on a 120 degree arc and points to the actual minute. On the way from 0 to 60, it will carry the hour number, and when it flies back to zero, it will release the hour number and pick up the next number when it starts from zero again. A very clever system rotates the satellite for three hours, so the correct hour number will always be up and can be picked up by the pointer returning at any time. The most important thing is that flying back is not easy, and must fly very fast (less than 0.1 seconds), so it will not compromise to indicate the correct time.
The flyback pointer and satellite system are mounted on the central axis and installed in ruby bearings, so that the movement of all components reduces friction as much as possible. In order to get the right amount of power to fly the hand backwards, URWERK uses a cylindrical marine chronograph spring that extends vertically around the axis.
The counterclockwise minute hand (also forming the frame of the hour satellite) milled from solid aluminum (aluminum coated with black and engraved with UR-210) weighs only 0.302 grams. It is balanced by weight and therefore balanced on its axis.
There are also two indications at the two top corners of the “dial”: the winding efficiency indicator on the left and the power reserve indicator on the right. The winding efficiency indicator is brand new and allows the wearer to adjust the winding of the watch according to their activity level. Although some watches have an indicator to measure the torque of the mainspring, this new complication can calculate the difference between the energy consumed by the mainspring and the supplemental energy in the past two hours.
If the indicator is located in the red area, it means that the movement has not been fully wound by the automatic winding rotor and consumed stored energy. If it is in the green area, it indicates that the mainspring is being replenished with new energy, which is more than the movement used at the time. Therefore, the goal is to make it somewhere between red and green.
To make it between red and green, you do not need to adjust the activity level, but you can adjust the 3-position selector switch on the back of the case. There are three positions, namely full, deceleration and stop, and two adjustable turbines adjust the winding speed of the automatic winding system.
The upper right corner of the “dial pad” is the power reserve indicator. We think this is an area you are familiar with, so no explanation is needed.
movement
Internal movement automatic winding movement UR-7.10, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz). The movement contains 51 jewels, a Swiss lever escapement, a single metal balance wheel and a flat balance spring. The energy is stored in a single main spring, which can save up to 39 hours of energy when fully wound. These specifications are not unfamiliar to experienced watch collectors, because they have some knowledge of watches. It sounds strange that the unidirectional winding rotor is connected to an adjustable turbine, which can reduce the winding speed.
The main function is located on the dial side of the dial to display the time. As we have said before, the finishing is undoubtedly first-class, UR-210 has all the classic high-end watch finishing: round texture, round and straight satin polishing, satellite satin polishing and diamond polishing , Screw head bevel and polishing, etc.
URWERK UR-210S all-metal jacket
Forget the regular watch, and delete the imagination that shows a circle (maybe sometimes a square or rectangle) in your mind, and place 2 or 3 Hans watches in the center on the watch to indicate the time. Forget anything that has formed your first intuitive impression of the watch. Enter URWERK in a highly innovative way to show time. Or actually… is this really new? Well, in fact, the way of indicating time can be called the “wandering hours” complication, which is a complication of the old clock used centuries ago. However, its execution and design, and even more importantly, technical solutions, are outdated and can certainly be called highly innovative!
For most people, the UR-210 does not look like a regular watch, which is actually very cool. In essence, this is a dialogue segment, there are many topics worth talking about, and even more topics worth appreciating. Like all URWERK timepieces, the UR-210 is art on the wrist, a high-tech, high-tech and ultra-durable piece of art that is in short supply of time. Co-founder and watchmaker Felix Baumgartner (Felix Baumgartner) does everything possible to ensure that all parts are manufactured in accordance with COSC specifications, and completed in accordance with advanced watch standards. Therefore, you can say that this is a watch, but you can also say that this is art. You can decide whether to call URWERK UR-210 as a watch. We just want to declare that it is one of the coolest, most innovative, technically impressive and awesome time indicating devices we have ever reviewed.