Bell & Ross reimagined its BR01 design with current metal.
In September, Bell & Ross launched the new BR05 series, which combines some basic design features of modern steel integrated bracelet sports watches with the existing visual language of the BR01 series. The BR01 series of watches were originally considered to be the watch version of aircraft instruments. Over the years, it has become a universal platform for all kinds of watches, including original designs of various sizes, diver’s watches, and even hollow automatic tourbillons with micro-rotors.
The BR05 series is clearly connected to the BR01 series. However, as we pointed out in the introductory article, in general, there is also a clear connection with the entire world of integrated stainless steel sports watches. Since Audemars Piguet launched the first Royal Oak in 1972, this The connection is always developing. The BR05 case shape Bell and Rose have used clocks and watches for many years, as do the fonts of the Arabic numeral models. And, of course, the circular baton mark is not only used by AP for steel sports watches, but also by Patek Philippe, Girard-Perregaux, etc. The feel of the watches I have seen from the initial press release pictures is that although in many respects they are definitely derived directly from the modern steel sports watch design vocabulary, they still have a clear Bell & Ross logo. Moreover, they are very likely to persuade themselves to be appreciated on their own merits, not just as a tribute to the design.
When we unboxed the watch and took pictures, my first impression of the discount cheap watch was the surprisingly high quality. If the price point is cheaper than the price, then the price point tends to generate higher expectations than you put forward. On the bracelet, the closed dial model with Arabic numerals is US$4,900. However, in terms of price, you are getting the construction and finishing of the case, which is much more complicated and more complicated than what is usually seen in steel-to-steel, time and date watches at this price point.
The appearance of the case is very attractive, with a clear transition between brushed and polished surfaces. Obviously, attention has been paid to the details, including the radial alignment of the bezel screws, the structure of the crown guard, and so on. Heard various opinions from other editors on the Bell & Ross logo. I think the company uses the ampersand to give the program the beauty of the mid-20th century. (As you can imagine, Mr. Bell and Mr. Rose may initially be legal partners.) The execution of the crown, buckle and dial of the BR05 watch, especially for connecting these two elements, as well as the entire watch, is generally applicable to Bell & Ross design.
Although the edges of the links themselves are very sharp, their links and links are still as finished as the case. You notice it without putting the bracelet on your wrist, but you notice it when you handle the watch to turn it on and off. Nevertheless, the overall impression of the bracelet is still very positive. In appearance, it is well integrated with the case, and the circular link and the circular bezel echo each other well. This watch is 11 mm thick and thin enough to express the elegant side of sporty elegance, and the truly commendable attention to detail makes the price reasonable to a large extent.
When Bell & Ross replica first released the watch, the fact that the movement was a Sellita movement caused a sensation. There are two perspectives to consider this issue. The first is the added value of internal movement. My personal opinion is that “inside” is not a particularly useful metric for watch interest. Broadly speaking, the reliability, accuracy, structure and surface quality of motion can be evaluated. And, although, for example, A. Lange & Söhne’s movement in-house is symbolic, it is at least as important that they must be so well done and made from two pieces. Process and material point of view.
At lower prices, no matter whether the movement is built-in or not, you cannot get traditional handmade high-end movement decorations. Therefore, there is competition between in-house and outsourcing in terms of functionality, durability, longevity, and accuracy. Rolex (Rolex) Oyster Perpetual watches start at $5,400, and Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko) machinery starts at $3,800; then there are hybrid movements, such as the Tissot Powermatic 80, which is an extensively refurbished version of the ETA 2824. Here, the appearance of in-house movements is usually associated with watch companies that can produce watches and parts in beautiful places. Large scale. They are able to share development and manufacturing costs among tens of thousands of watches during production runs that last for several years. For a relatively small independent company like Bell & Ross, if it wants to develop a universal multi-purpose automatic movement, it is more difficult to justify its rationality when there are excellent existing technical solutions (such as the Sellita movement). The company will spend more energy on the design, manufacture and finishing of watch cases and bracelets without increasing the price to a problematic level.
The BR05 Skeleton, like the gold watch, is not a bad watch in itself. Skeleton watches can compete in many ways, but usually involve higher prices-sometimes higher prices, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre Master ultra-thin Squelette watch, which was priced at $58,500 when it was released in 2016 , This is a hand-decorated, hollow classic movement that will bring you a good example of success. You can also compete on the originality of the movement architecture, which is Cartier’s timepieces, such as Santos Noctambule (which also uses light-emitting technology).
Standard industrial finishes are nothing to be ashamed of, but there is usually nothing to show off. Now, the BR05 skeleton movement does not make any expressions. The skeleton is done in a simple, craftsman-like way, which suits the general atmosphere of a watch. However, this, like many dials sold at this price, mainly attracts those who are fascinated by the mechanism as a mechanism rather than an expression of craftsmanship.
Putting these warnings aside, and looking at it as a whole, I personally found these very attractive watches. The case and processing of the bracelet are indeed very good. If the quality of the BR05 steel watch cannot reach the quality of the Royal Oak, the price will not rise to this level. Overall, in my opinion, the BR05 series is not only a solid complement to the Bell & Ross series, but also an interesting and attractive alternative to some of the more expensive items in this rapidly expanding watch category.