Patek Philippe Ref.5015 & Ref.5396

Sports luxury replica watches are now in the limelight. The 5711 with PP blue is hard to find. This year is the 40th anniversary of the launch of Nautilus. It is definitely a topical series. Aquanaut’s 5167 is also popular with fried chicken, but I always think Calatrava’s simple and elegant appearance is Timeless classic. The 5015 was the first PP watch that I purchased in the 90s with performance, and the overall shape and practical design of the 5396 attracted me the most.

Watches with strong classicism style and craftsmanship usually have classic shapes. Classics are timeless and cannot be replaced. They can be passed down for a long time. The classics are always deeply rooted in people’s hearts. The PP 5015 came out in the 90s. The appearance of the officer’s case with an openable back, the perfect performance layout and the imitation magnetic white face plate made many watch fans crazy. It was a very classic watch that year.

The most special thing about the 5015 is that its moon phase has the ability to display “month age”. The number of teeth on the moon phase dial is 135 teeth. The moon phase is accurate to one day every 122 years, so it is in the moon phase display window. A pointer that runs synchronously with the phases of the moon is installed in the middle, and a scale of one grid is added to the top of the umbrella-shaped window of the moon phase, so that the date of the lunar calendar can be clearly displayed. This was the first one to have this in the year. A high-performance watch is very worth collecting.

The appearance of the PP 5015 officer’s case is matched with an openable back, the perfect performance layout and the imitation magnetic white face plate are the perfect combination.

This is only the earliest platinum version in my hand. The imprint is still an antelope head instead of a Saint Bernard dog head. It belongs to the old imprint before 1995. The 5015 is equipped with the Cal.240 movement. It uses a 22K gold miniature automatic disc and a single upward chain. It is a thinner design. The thickness is 2.4MM, the frequency is 21600 times, and it is equipped with a single-layer alloy hairspring. Masselotte counterweight screws that can change the torque are used to fine-tune the speed. It is a new generation of self-winding movement developed by PP in the 1970s. It has been used for nearly 40 years. It can be seen in watches below the perpetual calendar, and the performance is quite similar. Competent. The officer’s case that can open the back has always been very popular. The follow-up 5059 perpetual calendar and the 5013 basic model have responded well to the market. The 36MM ratio is the best. Although it looks a little too small now, the classic is always intriguing. By the way, PP 5227 has the phenotype of Calatrava, but it also has a unique design that can open the back. It is a classic among the classics and it is worth having.

A pointer synchronized with the moon phase is installed in the middle of the 5015 moon phase display window, and a one-grid scale is added above the umbrella-shaped window of the moon phase, so that the date of the lunar calendar can be clearly displayed.

There are a total of three dial designs for PP 5396 so far. The 5396 of the first generation has rail subscales and willow pointers, which are very elegant. The performance and configuration of the second generation of 5396 are exactly the same, but the ivory white dial and arrow-shaped pointers are deep. I am deeply attracted. Friends who play watches know the powerful and fatal attraction of watches. As long as they are poisoned, it is difficult to get out of the whole body. Therefore, they have long been included in my collection.

The charm of 5396 is unstoppable. The rod-shaped hour is equipped with a bead scale as standard. There are two windows below twelve o’clock, which display the week and the month from left to right, and there is a pointer indicating twenty-four on the periphery of the moon wheel below. Hourly performance, easy to understand the time of morning and afternoon. In the part of the date conversion, the hand slowly shifts at 11:40 pm and the date bounces at about 12:40. At this time, the calendar shifts to the left, and it shifts to the right again at 1:30 to return to the correct position. Location, this kind of sun jumping is a bit muddy and not smooth enough. This is a problem with the overall design of the PP calendar structure. All calendars have this situation, which is what I care more about.

The 5015 is equipped with the Cal.240 movement, using a 22K gold miniature automatic disc with a single upward chain, which is a thinner model.

The first generation 324 is the Geneva Seal, and my 5396 belongs to the first batch of the second generation, which is also the Geneva Seal. After this batch, the PP seal is used. According to the factory’s information, the PP mark has been improved in the accuracy specification. I am very concerned about whether the accuracy of the travel time is higher than the level of the observatory certification. Fortunately, this 5396 with the Geneva Seal is in good condition. It is about three seconds a day. It’s very satisfying.

The 5396 ivory white face plate and arrow-shaped hands are the most attractive classic style among all PP calendars.

The pre-70s PP automatic movements 600 and 460 are essential for collectors and are recognized by all players as the highest quality models. They are characterized by precision and durability and good winding efficiency. The Gyromax balance wheel, equipped with double hairspring, is almost impeccable. After the 70s, PP used 28-255. The most well-known model is the first generation of 3700, with a diameter of 42MM. It is a collector-grade popular swiss watch brands. Then 240 and 310 movements came out. , Is the core of the PP automatic watch, but these successor models have nothing to do with the initial design of the 600 and 460, the system is completely different, unlike the IWC Pellaton system, even though the latest research and development after nearly sixty years The movement still uses the “woodpecker” winding mechanism. At present, PP has fully adopted the 324 movement. From the comparison of the movement structure with the previous generation 300 series including 315 and 330, the 8 Masselotte weight screws on the inner side of the balance wheel have been changed to 4, and the factory’s statement is that there are fewer screws. Contribute to the balance of the balance wheel.

When the date is converted, the number of PP’s almanac will first shift to the left and then to the right, and then return to the correct position. This is a problem of the calendar structure design.

In the early days, the weight screws of the PP movement were inlaid on the ring of the balance wheel. The production process was complicated. Later, for mass production, the screws were installed on the inside of the balance wheel. This method is less difficult to produce. In fact, if you want to achieve fine-tuning The effect, 6 or 2 can also achieve the goal, but 8 still has the early style of PP, very popular with PP watch fans. In addition, 324 increased the vibration frequency from 21600 to 28800, with better accuracy, thicker automatic disc, and improved winding efficiency. It is basically a partial improvement in performance. Now the escapement mechanism such as silicon crystal hairspring is replaced, which is more accurate in travel time. The role of promotion.

The 324 movement on the 5396 increases the vibration frequency from 21,600 to 28,800, with better accuracy, thicker automatic disc, and improved winding efficiency.

The 5035, launched in 1996, is the founding model of the annual calendar, and it is also a performance that has never appeared in timepieces. This year is the twentieth year of the advent of the annual calendar. PP launched the third representative plate of 5396. In all fairness, Arabic numerals are equipped as standard. The sword-shaped pointer is a bit unsuitable, it should be more suitable for matching with willow needles, if it can be used with Breguet pointers, it is a perfect combination. PP 5041 or the limited edition 5153 created for London last year are also Arabic characters and Breguet-style hands. This is the classic orthodox practice in watches.