Since working with the two companies for many years, replica Porche design and Eterna quickly expressed their intentions after separating, and Eterna has been using the company to produce a variety of sober technical timepieces. (Actually, you can read my comments on Porsche Design Worldtimer timepieces during this period in the iW edition in March 2013). Porsche Design established its own Swiss timepiece department and appointed former Eterna technical director Patrick Kury as its head. A few months ago, Porsche Design launched two new timepieces.
The First model was developed independently by the new Porsche Design Timepieces AG (based in Solothurn, Switzerland) and has a dual purpose. First of all, they mark the beginning of a new Porsche-centric design and production process for watches. Secondly, these new works recall the breakthrough features of the two most successful early models produced by the brand in the 1970s and 1980s, namely Timepiece 1 and Titanium Chronograph made of matte black and titanium. In fact, the 1980 titanium timepiece is often considered the world’s first all-titanium case bracelet.
Anyone who knows or owns any of these early styles will recognize these latest watches-of course, this is the point. The first models of the 2015 series, such as the Porsche Design Timepiece No.1 and the Porsche Design watches Titanium Limited Edition as shown on the right, are limited to 500 pieces, and can be immediately recognized as meaningless chronographs.
The latter model that I have worn for a week or so feels light on the wrist, which is not surprising given its titanium case and clasp. However, even with the ETA Valjoux automatic chronograph movement, which is not particularly thin, the watch did not press my wrist as significantly as a watch made with this main movement. Maybe the padded calfskin strap worked magic on my senses.
The black dial here has a white mark and includes a five-minute indicator on the inner flange. When viewed with the black marking of the speedometer on the (fixed) bezel, the technology of the watch and the front paws of the car are absolutely clearly visible. The same red chronograph second hand as those earlier models appears here (and the No. 1 timepiece), reminding people in a nostalgic and practical way that Porsche Design insists on an easy-to-read dial.
The matte surface here is a technical color, only slightly darker than my aluminum phone. As a result, it tells me where it performs its function, rather than broadcasting my wealth or status. The black matte version may convey a different message-may be interested in stealth fashion.
No wrong choice
Either way, these men watches are the opposite of bling. I suspect that only those who wear or own other Porsche Design products can recognize the company’s logo at any distance, especially since the logo appears very small on the dial, right above the Porsche Design name.
Finally, the above-mentioned padded calfskin strap is more functional than luxury straps, and according to my personal preference, its position with the case is slightly different. I usually prefer a one-piece strap that is tightly tied to the case, because Porsche Design seems to have made a seemingly one-piece rubber strap for the black timepiece No. 1. Since I haven’t worn this model, I can’t tell the actual fit, but it looks tighter than a belt in the photo. The titanium buckle is excellent. It has a simple size and can be fastened safely and effortlessly.
Porsche Design assures us that the genes of Ferdinand Alexander Porsche are embedded in these new models. Indeed, when Porsche designed these original models more than forty years ago, they mentioned the following principles: best readability, technical perfection, highest quality materials and attention to function. The watch worn on the wrist can clearly show what the new Porsche Design timepiece should store. I firmly believe that these guidelines have been followed.
The basis of the Globetimer UTC series is the Porsche Design 1919 chassis. Porsche Design initially made its debut as part of its driving force to make it more distinctive. Destined to be a watch in 1919, when worn on the wrist, it would immediately say “Porsche Design” to onlookers. Of course, this will take years and depends on the timepiece that provides a unique visual experience. In most cases, this is related to the 1919 case, which may be larger than its suggested width of 42 mm. This is due to the “single-piece” hollow lug structure protruding from the case and fixing itself on the strap or bracelet. With such protruding lugs and the thickness of the 1919 case of nearly 15 mm, the Globetimer UTC designed by Porsche in 1919 looks best on medium to large wrists.
Is the watch titanium? Of course it is-we are talking about Porsche design. In fact, in 2019, Porsche Design also released a full 18k rose gold version of the 1919 Globetimer UTC with a black dial. Other models also include blue, brown and black dials, most of which are matte sandblasted titanium cases. The matching Porsche Design titanium bracelet only has a blue version, while other models are paired with a thick “original Porsche car” leather strap.
Now, the overall quality and structure of Porsche Design is really impressive. Details of the 1919 Globetimer UTC include the polished titanium bezel and certain angles on the buttons. The textured crown is both beautiful and easy to grasp. Even if the dial does not immediately appeal to you with a novel or unique appearance, it is attractive and clear and easy to read. I really like the Globetimer UTC in 1919 because you do feel that it is a modern design product, but it is produced based on long-term expertise and style, and it feels very similar to the best cars today. Is it a bit like a Porsche car? Porsche Design hopes so.
When it comes to Porsche cars, Porsche Design (a company belonging to the same group) has increasingly been linked to the brand’s automotive business. This is a bit different from the mentality a few years ago, and that is to make Porsche Design feel different. In addition to the various Porsche design watches that are actually aimed at specific Porsche owners, we are also beginning to see more design spirit overlaps between Porsche Design watches and German companies’ world-renowned cars (such as the 911 series).